View Full Version : Red Tint in developed film

Bob Pickering
01-20-2004, 09:59 PM
Hello all

I had something wierd happen and I think I know what it is but I wanted 2nd thoughts

I developed 2 rolls of Fuji 100 speed 35 MM film and when I got the pictures back I had a very slight red tint to my shots. Janice shot with her Digital Canon G5 and they came out with better colors.

The camera I am using is a Nikon FG11 35 MM it is about 4 years old. The film I used was about 11 months old and some of it may have been through a security scanner or two.

My thought that the problem was with the film as i have had great luck with that camera so far



Save The Wave
01-21-2004, 03:18 AM
I had a similar issue with a roll of Kodak Ektar 25. Nearly all of the pictures had a pink cast to them. The film was a few years old, but had always been refrigerated until used.
Maybe there was some exposure to light (other than intended) at some point? It's odd you would get the same problem on two rolls though.

E.M. Bell
01-21-2004, 04:18 AM
if that had happened to olny one roll of film, I would have said bad or old film, but even with two rollls of the same age, the chance of them both having the same problem is remote.

First, rule out that it is a developing error...take a gander at your negitives and and see if you can see any haze or tint to them, but unless the color problem is REALLY bad, you probably wont. I would suggest taking the negs to a differnt place and having them reprinted and then see if the trouble is on the new set of prints. If it is, it may be the camera, and most likely a light leak around the back door or shutter...even a very small light leak anywhere in the back of the camera could tend to cause a simular problem. I had a old Cannon AE-1 a few years ago, and it developed a simular problem..everything I shot with it hade a overexposed look to it, or a color cast in the same exact place on every frame. That turned out to be a combination of a sticky shutter (did not close all the way) and part of the felt "gasket" around the focus element, which let a tiny bit of light in..

01-21-2004, 10:09 AM
How did you store your films. If you just left them on a shelve they will have gone too old. A film has an expiry date on it. You can see it on the packaging. However, a film expires faster once used! Therefore you are ill adviced to leave a film in your camera for a long period of time.

If you left them properly refrigerated and everything this is probably a fault by the development lab.

Bob Pickering
01-21-2004, 08:56 PM
The film is over a year old been stored at room temp. I have nevr had a problem with the camera so I am going to shoot a new role of film and see what the results are.

Thanks again for the help!


01-22-2004, 12:00 AM
Having not seen either the prints or the negatives my guess would be a bad color balance on the prints. This happens when the prints are being done, not with the processing of the film. Most places I've had this experience have re-printed the roll at no charge. I seriously doubt it is in the film. Today's films are quite forgiving, even having been stored for a year at room temp should not give a color shift that could not be corrected out.
As to storing film, the best way is to freeze it until about a week before you want to use it, then put it in the fridge to thaw out, and take it out of the fridge to warm up to room temp the day before you are going to expose it. Also, try to buy an entire "brick" of film (that is 24 rolls in a package), which will give you the same emulsion on every roll, which means consistent color for the entire 24 rolls.
Just a few nuggets to gnaw on ...

02-08-2004, 05:21 AM
It is difficult to evaluate such problems from shooting print film. Unless you're doing the print development yourself, it is literally impossible to get consistent results from one printer to another.

That's why most people that value color reproduction and maintaining the exposure THEY selected in the shot either shoot slides or digital. E-6 (or K-14 if you shoot Kodachrome) processing is very straightforward, and has to be maintained within very specific temperature ranges. As long as the developer changes out the chemicals as reccomended, you're generally going to get the same results from one developer to another with 35mm.