Old 05-10-2014, 11:00 PM   #1
Firefighter1019
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Default Night Photos standards?

Hit with Bad color and Bad contrast. Kinda hard to get good color with Orange lighting.


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Old 05-10-2014, 11:07 PM   #2
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Hit with Bad color and Bad contrast. Kinda hard to get good color with Orange lighting.
100000% legit rejection... You can expect them to accept something like that. "Orange lights" is not an excuse.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:14 PM   #3
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100000% legit rejection... You can expect them to accept something like that. "Orange lights" is not an excuse.

So in other words.. Find a new spot to photograph.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:32 AM   #4
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So in other words.. Find a new spot to photograph.
Yes, definitely.
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Old 05-11-2014, 12:33 AM   #5
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So in other words.. Find a new spot to photograph.
Some locations just do not work. This one, however, can. The color temperature is an easy fix. Either use a filter or adjust the color temperature later in your editing program. In this case - "Auto-color" did the trick.

Can't help you on the overexposure. You can reshoot it. If per chance you can not keep the lights from blowing out (though you likely can), you can do an HDR or layer using properly exposed selections between multiple images.

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Old 05-11-2014, 01:48 AM   #6
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Some locations just do not work. This one, however, can. The color temperature is an easy fix. Either use a filter or adjust the color temperature later in your editing program. In this case - "Auto-color" did the trick.

Can't help you on the overexposure. You can reshoot it. If per chance you can not keep the lights from blowing out (though you likely can), you can do an HDR or layer using properly exposed selections between multiple images.

Attachment 8590

/Mitch
Yea, he can fix the color temperature and white balance, but at the end of the day his inclusion of the light source is bound to screw up the exposure (and it did in this case). The photo has many issues above and beyond color.
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Old 05-10-2014, 11:33 PM   #7
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You can always adjust the color but that ufo in your shot. Ugh, just not good.
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:46 AM   #8
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Again, the UFO light, just ugh.
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:48 AM   #9
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You should appeal on the account of "Orange Lighting" and see how far that gets you!
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Old 05-17-2014, 01:37 PM   #10
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You should appeal on the account of "Orange Lighting" and see how far that gets you!
Im not to worried about it. I tried playing with the color but the photo really isnt all that exciting anyway lol
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Old 05-17-2014, 03:11 PM   #11
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Lightbulb

You could shoot this scene at this spot if you were to zoom down on the subject to remove the light post and the big ball of glare on the right.

Also, you would need to shoot in RAW format and setting the WB on the camera at tungsten and then readjusting the white balance further on the computer during post processing.

Night shots are actually trickier than day shots and many times you will go back and reshoot places after you see the initial results.
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Old 05-19-2014, 01:04 PM   #12
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..you would need to shoot in RAW format and setting the WB on the camera at tungsten..
Or just leave the wb on the auto setting because it doesn't matter when you're going to be editing a raw file..

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Old 05-19-2014, 08:44 PM   #13
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Or just leave the wb on the auto setting because it doesn't matter when you're going to be editing a raw file.
I can think of only one reply to this statement - duh.

(Rivet counting at it's finest.)

Not to be too much of an ass, but don't you think if he knew that, he would have corrected the original image?

At least with Tungsten it will look somewhat on the preview of his camera as to where he needs to be with the WB.

That was my only intent.

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I usually go under the standard tungsten 3200k color temp and do a slight hue adjustement for sodium vapor lighting.

And you stand out in the field and do that?

See above reply.

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Old 05-19-2014, 02:35 PM   #14
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I admittedly have very little experience editing photos shot under sodium-vapour lighting, but the few times I've done it with my little point-and-shoot and the WB set to "tungsten," it seems that the colours come out as an awful puke-yellow tone that's even harder to correct. Anybody else have feel this to be the case as well?

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Old 05-19-2014, 03:09 PM   #15
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I usually go under the standard tungsten 3200k color temp and do a slight hue adjustement for sodium vapor lighting.

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Old 05-20-2014, 04:15 AM   #16
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Remember...I don't shoot in raw. The files are too, too large, and I don't place too much archival value in my digital shots.

As for the shot...I don't see a way to do anything with that blown out light tower. I messed around with the color just a little and did a recrop. That portion of the image looks pretty cool.


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Old 05-22-2014, 05:18 AM   #17
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Remember...I don't shoot in raw. The files are too, too large, and I don't place too much archival value in my digital shots.

You can fit a lot more RAW files in a shoe box than snap shots or slides.

Just saying....
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Old 06-11-2014, 05:47 PM   #18
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While I now shoot just RAW, I used to shoot both RAW and JPG (don't ask me why, just cause it was there). On a few occasions I processed a JPG file either by mistake or because it was easier. My guess is that for 99 percent of what we shoot, JPG is just fine. The exception is probably night photography or pix taken in poor lighting, which might require a bit more "fixing" in Photoshop. I think this is especially true if the goal is documentary photography.
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Old 06-11-2014, 06:32 PM   #19
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While I now shoot just RAW, I used to shoot both RAW and JPG (don't ask me why, just cause it was there). On a few occasions I processed a JPG file either by mistake or because it was easier. My guess is that for 99 percent of what we shoot, JPG is just fine. The exception is probably night photography or pix taken in poor lighting, which might require a bit more "fixing" in Photoshop. I think this is especially true if the goal is documentary photography.
I shoot jpeg-only for most of my paid work, with the exception of weddings. I shoot those in jpeg+raw since there aren't mulligans in that line of work.

I shoot all my hobby junk in raw exclusively.

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Old 06-11-2014, 09:57 PM   #20
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I shoot jpeg-only for most of my paid work, with the exception of weddings. I shoot those in jpeg+raw since there aren't mulligans in that line of work.

I shoot all my hobby junk in raw exclusively.

Loyd L.
I shoot RAW for everything, paid or not. I've just found that it's easier to do a batch editing, and then a group export to .jpg if that's what the customer wants.

BTW Loyd, give me a call when you get some time, came up with an interesting idea you may find equally as interesting.
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Old 05-23-2014, 02:06 AM   #21
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Remember...I don't shoot in raw. The files are too, too large, and I don't place too much archival value in my digital shots.
There was a time not so long ago that people thought the file sizes you are currently using were too, too large.
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:41 AM   #22
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Truth be told im still learning the whole DLSR and RAW format stuff. Ive only had my DSLR since Christmas. Ive only ever shot with point and shoot before that. Still trying to understand the RAW format and how to use it. Doesnt help my laptop is outdated and slow at keeping up with modern photo processing programs.
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Old 05-23-2014, 03:44 AM   #23
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Truth be told im still learning the whole DLSR and RAW format stuff. Ive only had my DSLR since Christmas. Ive only ever shot with point and shoot before that. Still trying to understand the RAW format and how to use it. Doesnt help my laptop is outdated and slow at keeping up with modern photo processing programs.
RAW will certainly save the day when in regards to white balance and color cast correction.

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Old 06-11-2014, 12:19 PM   #24
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RAW will certainly save the day when in regards to white balance and color cast correction.

Chase
Especially when shooting lightning. It's amazing how much the white balance can differ between each strike.

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Old 06-13-2014, 03:53 AM   #25
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Remember...I don't shoot in raw. The files are too, too large, and I don't place too much archival value in my digital shots.
I would say this is startling coming from a man who has been archiving superb rail photos for decades.

How many times Ron you have complained about the poor quality of the photos you took 50 years ago with bad camera's and bad film? Well, by shooting on JPEG'S, you are doing the same thing now.

RAW keeps everything the sensor saw. Not only is this archival, it also allows the ability to truly work with your image.

The "too large" argument is so 2001. Cards and drives are so huge and cheap now there is no reason to stick with that rational.

50 years from now someone will be saying, "Darn it, if only Ron had shot this in RAW! Then it would have worked really good on our L&N Holodeck!"

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Holodeck
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