Old 03-25-2011, 01:26 AM   #1
coborn35
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Default Get whole car/engine in focus on a pan shot

Just some of my test shots. Im curious, do I just need more room to get the whole car/engine in focus, or am I focusing wrong or what?
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I personally have had a problem with those trying to tell us to turn railroad photography into an "art form." It's fine for them to do so, I welcome it in fact, but what I do have a problem with is that the practitioners of the more "arty" shots, I have found, tend to look down their nose's at others who are shooting more "mundane" shots.
Railroad photography is what you make of it, but one way is not "better" than another, IMHO. Unless you have a pole right thought the nose of the engine! -SG
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:56 AM   #2
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Panning with the train not completely perpendicular to the line of sight is going to get you in that situation unless you zoom pan. Also, if you are perpendicular, the farther zoomed in you go, the more of it you can get sharp. See these:

Image © Matthew Hicks
PhotoID: 352614
Photograph © Matthew Hicks

Image © Mike Johannessen
PhotoID: 350338
Photograph © Mike Johannessen

Image © Mike Johannessen
PhotoID: 353860
Photograph © Mike Johannessen

Image © Mike Johannessen
PhotoID: 319411
Photograph © Mike Johannessen

Image © Mike Johannessen
PhotoID: 338668
Photograph © Mike Johannessen
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Old 03-25-2011, 04:57 AM   #3
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Also, if you are perpendicular, the farther zoomed in you go, the more of it you can get sharp.
I'm not sure what you intend to describe by using "it" in that statement. Focal length has no effect on the amount of a moving object which will be sharp in a perpendicular pan, though it will affect the portion of the composition which expresses said sharpness.
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Old 03-25-2011, 01:39 PM   #4
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I'm not sure what you intend to describe by using "it" in that statement. Focal length has no effect on the amount of a moving object which will be sharp in a perpendicular pan, though it will affect the portion of the composition which expresses said sharpness.
Yes, you are right, technically. What I was saying is that if you are at 200mm or so, anything in your frame will be sharp. Whereas at like 28mm only a very small portion of the frame (though the same as space as at 200, its just much smaller in the frame) will be sharp. Sharpness really has to do with how far the subject is from you.
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Old 03-26-2011, 02:33 AM   #5
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Sharpness really has to do with how far the subject is from you.
No, sharpness is entirely a function with how precisely focus has been achieved. High resolution is needed to see detail in distant objects at short focal lengths.
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Old 03-26-2011, 04:07 AM   #6
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A case of semantics, I think. Or is is simply using the wrong words.

Basically, the less an arc you have, the more of a subject you can properly keep in focus. The best way to reduce the amount of swing in your pan is to step back further and zoom in. Picture standing in a circle with grooves. The moving object on the inside groove will fly by faster then then same object going the same speed on the outside groove. Not only that, but - and to the point - the object further away can all be in the sweet spot where the object up close will likely be both going away and still coming with only one part in focus. The blur of the background will also be greater when further away since, unlike the subject which will be moving across the screen slower, the background will be moving in the frame much faster.

: )

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Old 03-26-2011, 12:27 PM   #7
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Mitch's right. We're confused over words.

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Old 03-26-2011, 02:45 PM   #8
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>> Mitch >>
<< Mitch, I always took you as a right-to-left kind of guy <<
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Rhymes with slice, rice and mice, and probably should be spelled like "Tice."

This pretty much sums it up: http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Thias

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Old 03-26-2011, 05:09 PM   #9
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Either way, it's all good!

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Old 03-28-2011, 12:09 AM   #10
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<< Mitch, I always took you as a right-to-left kind of guy <<
<<
I felt left out.

I'm going double or nothing! <<

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