Old 11-30-2008, 03:19 AM   #26
John Ryan
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Originally Posted by Ween
You should let him borrow your body with it set to RAW while you're at it.
Haha, Andrew and I have already debated the RAW issue. The current irony of it is that I haven't installed the EOS software and ye olde Photoshop CS1 won't read the 1Ds Mark-III files, so I'm shooting RAW but not processing anything.
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Old 11-30-2008, 03:25 AM   #27
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Haha, Andrew and I have already debated the RAW issue. The current irony of it is that I haven't installed the EOS software and ye olde Photoshop CS1 won't read the 1Ds Mark-III files, so I'm shooting RAW but not processing anything.
Adobe DNG converter...of course, that's assuming CS1 can read .DNG...
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Old 11-30-2008, 09:36 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by Mike B.
That will only happen if you have no idea what you're doing. Every lens has a sweet spot, usually f/8, and as long as you stay there or close to it you will get acceptable results. Railroad photography isn't very demanding of glass because with most shots you don't need or want anything bigger than f/5.6. If you go larger than that too much of the photo will be blurry. If you were shooting at larger apertures, top level glass would be essential, but you're not. The main difference in pro glass is sharpness (not so much around f/8 however), color, bokeh, contrast, etc. All the advantages of pro glass are very useful and I highly recommend getting it if you can, but if you're shooting with an inadequate body you won't be getting the IQ you should be.

Don't spend all your money on a body, and don't spend all your money on glass either. Find a happy medium and upgrade as you go along.
I'm in agreement with Mike B on this one.

Andrew the XT/350D has served you well however I believe your photography skills have probably pushed it to it's limits so your decision to upgrade to the 40D is probably warranted for many reasons, one of which is the quality of the JPG output from the 40D which has improved since the XT/350D and given your reluctance to shot RAW (For reasons you have previously stated) this would have to be a good thing.

On the cheap lens issue you basically get what you pay for however there are one or two exceptions to that rule. Your Sigma 17-70 is probably a keeper for a little while longer but the 75-300 Canon would make a good candidate for replacement. I would put the 70-200L F4 on your shopping list or for a little less cash you could get the 70-300IS non L but I believe you would be better off with the L lens given your tendency to climb trees and run along railroad tracks and stuff

Other cheap lens gems to consider

Canon 50mm F1.8
AKA the nifty 50 or the plastic fantastic, try to get the mark 1 version with the metal mount. The Mark 2 has a horrible plastic mount.

Canon 85mm f1.8
A lovely portraiture lens given it's cost.

Tamron 90mm F2.8 Macro
This lens has been around for years in one form or another and is highly regarded.

Canon EF-S 60mm F2.8 Macro
This lens got rave reviews when it was relesed but be warned it does not fit full frame cameras something you should keep in mind should you ever want to upgrade to a 5Dmk2 in the future.

Tokina AF 11-16mm f/2.8
Given the cost of Canons offering the EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5 the Tokina does very well in the bang for the buck category.
And when the time comes to replace the Sigma lens check out Canons EF-S 17-55mm 2.8 IS lens, it cost's a bucket load but boy does it deliver.


Some food for thought.

Cheers,

Christine.
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